Ir al menú de navegación principal Ir al contenido principal Ir al pie de página del sitio
rd-24

Artículos

Año 8 No. 22 Enero - Abril 2022

Nueva era cosmetológica: Microorganismos y sus metabolitos en la formulación de fotoprotectores y aclaradores

DOI
https://doi.org/10.32399/icuap.rdic.2448-5829.2022.22.683
Enviado
diciembre 14, 2021
Publicado
enero 31, 2022

Resumen

La piel es la capa externa del cuerpo humano que cumple funciones de barrera contra diversos agentes ambientales, la radiación ultravioleta (UV) emitida por el sol es absorbida en la epidermis provocando daños como manchas, irritaciones, melanomas y arrugas, por lo que su protección a base de compuestos fotoprotectores y tratamientos aclaradores son necesarios. Los productos cosméticos convencionales se basan en una composición y síntesis química donde algunos de estos compuestos pueden resultar dañinos para la piel y su microbiota. Una solución y propuesta a estos elementos es la utilización de productos naturales, enfocándose en los microorganismos presentes en la piel que cuentan con propiedades probióticas y producen metabolitos fotoprotectores y aclaradores. El presente manuscrito discute el mecanismo de fotoprotección y aclaramiento, asociados con distintos microorganismos y su potencial de producción a una escala industrial.

Citas

  1. Asghari, G., Ihsanpour, A., & Akbari, A. (2006). Production of Arbutin by Biotransformation of Hydroquinone Using Peganum harmala, Varthemia persica and Pycnocycla spinosa Cell Suspension Cultures. Iranian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 2(2), 91–96.
  2. Brenner, M., & Hearing, V. J. (2008). Modifying skin pigmentation – approaches through intrinsic biochemistry and exogenous agents. Drug Discovery Today: Disease Mechanisms, 5(2), e189-e199. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ddmec.2008.02.001
  3. Brunt, E. G., & Burgess, J. G. (2018). The promise of marine molecules as cosmetic active ingredients. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 40(1), 1–15. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12435
  4. Chang, T. S. (2009). An Updated Review of Tyrosinase Inhibitors. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 10(6), 2440–2475. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms10062440
  5. Chen, Y. E., Fischbach, M. A., & Belkaid, Y. (2018). Skin microbiota–host interactions. Nature, 553(7689), 427–436. https://doi.org/10.1038/nature25177
  6. D’Orazio, J., Jarrett, S., Amaro-Ortiz, A., & Scott, T. (2013). UV Radiation and the Skin. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 14(6), 12222–12248. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms140612222
  7. De Jager, T. L., Cockrell, A. E., & Du Plessis, S. S. (2017). Ultraviolet Light Induced Generation of Reactive Oxygen Species. In Advances in Experimental Medicine and Biology (pp. 15–23). Springer International Publishing. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-56017-5_2
  8. Egert, M., & Simmering, R. (2016). The Microbiota of the Human Skin. In Microbiota of the Human Body (pp. 61–81). Springer International Publishing. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-31248-4_5
  9. Fernandéz, J. R., Rouzard, K., Voronkov, M., Feng, X., Stock, J. B., Stock, M., Gordon, J. S., Shroot, B., Christensen, M. S., & Pérez, E. (2012). SIG1273: a new cosmetic functional ingredient to reduce blemishes and Propionibacterium acnes in acne prone skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 11(4), 272–278. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.12002
  10. Geoffrey, K., Mwangi, A. N., & Maru, S. M. (2019). Sunscreen products: Rationale for use, formulation development and regulatory considerations. Saudi Pharmaceutical Journal, 27(7), 1009–1018. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jsps.2019.08.003
  11. Gomes, C., Silva, A. C., Marques, A. C., Sousa Lobo, J., & Amaral, M. H. (2020). Biotechnology Applied to Cosmetics and Aesthetic Medicines. Cosmetics, 7(2), 33. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7020033
  12. Grice, E. A., & Segre, J. A. (2011). The skin microbiome. Nature Reviews Microbiology, 9(4), 244–253. https://doi.org/10.1038/nrmicro2537
  13. Guéniche, A., David, P., Philippe, B., Stephanie, B., Elif, B., & Isabelle, C. H. (2009). Probiotics for photoprotection. Dermato-Endocrinology, 1(5), 275–279. https://doi.org/10.4161/derm.1.5.9849
  14. Haghbeen, K., Saboury, A. A., & Karbassi, F. (2004). Substrate share in the suicide inactivation of mushroom tyrosinase. Biochimica et Biophysica Acta (BBA) - General Subjects, 1675(1–3), 139–146. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.bbagen.2004.08.017
  15. Hill, C., Guarner, F., Reid, G., Gibson, G. R., Merenstein, D. J., Pot, B., Morelli, L., Canani, R. B., Flint, H. J., Salminen, S., Calder, P. C., & Sanders, M. E. (2014). The International Scientific Association for Probiotics and Prebiotics consensus statement on the scope and appropriate use of the term probiotic. Nature Reviews Gastroenterology & Hepatology, 11(8), 506–514. https://doi.org/10.1038/nrgastro.2014.66
  16. Juzeniene, A., & Moan, J. (2012). Beneficial effects of UV radiation other than via vitamin D production. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(2), 109–117. https://doi.org/10.4161/derm.20013
  17. Kong, H. H., & Segre, J. A. (2012). Skin Microbiome: Looking Back to Move Forward. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 132(3), 933–939. https://doi.org/10.1038/jid.2011.417
  18. Kurosu, J., Sato, T., Yoshida, K., Tsugane, T., Shimura, S., Kirimura, K., Kino, K., & Usami, S. (2002). Enzymatic synthesis of α-arbutin by α-anomer-selective glucosylation of hydroquinone using lyophilized cells of Xanthomonas campestris WU-9701. Journal of Bioscience and Bioengineering, 93(3), 328–330. https://doi.org/10.1016/s1389-1723(02)80037-8
  19. Lai, Y., Di Nardo, A., Nakatsuji, T., Leichtle, A., Yang, Y., Cogen, A. L., Wu, Z.-R., Hooper, L. V, Schmidt, R. R., Von Aulock, S., Radek, K. A., Huang, C.-M., Ryan, A. F., & Gallo, R. L. (2009). Commensal bacteria regulate Toll-like receptor 3–dependent inflammation after skin injury. Nature Medicine, 15(12), 1377–1382. https://doi.org/10.1038/nm.2062
  20. La Gaceta. (2021). Cómo quitar las manchas de la cara. Los mejores remedios naturales. La Gaceta de Salamanca Recuperado 30 de noviembre de 2021, de https://www.lagacetadesalamanca.es/salud/como-quitar-las-manchas-de-la-cara-los-mejores-remedios-naturales-IC7073785
  21. Madronich, S., Mckenzie, R. L., & Caldwell, M. M. (1998). Changes in biologically active ultraviolet radiation reaching the Earth ’ s surface.
  22. Mansur, M. C. P. P. R., Campos, C., Vermelho, A. B., Nobrega, J., Da Cunha Boldrini, L., Balottin, L., Lage, C., Rosado, A. S., Ricci-Júnior, E., & Dos Santos, E. P. (2020). Photoprotective nanoemulsions containing microbial carotenoids and buriti oil: Efficacy and safety study. Arabian Journal of Chemistry, 13(8), 6741–6752. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.arabjc.2020.06.028
  23. Moreiras, H., Seabra, M. C., & Barral, D. C. (2021). Melanin Transfer in the Epidermis: The Pursuit of Skin Pigmentation Control Mechanisms. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 22(9), 4466. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms22094466
  24. Muñoz-Muñoz, J. L., Garcia-Molina, F., Varon, R., Garcia-Ruíz, P. A., Tudela, J., Garcia-Cánovas, F., & Rodríguez-López, J. N. (2010). Suicide inactivation of the diphenolase and monophenolase activities of tyrosinase. IUBMB Life, 62(7), 539–547. https://doi.org/10.1002/iub.348
  25. Ngo, M. A., Sinitsyna, N. N., Qin, Q., & Rice, R. H. (2007). Oxygen-Dependent Differentiation of Human Keratinocytes. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 127(2), 354–361. https://doi.org/10.1038/sj.jid.5700522
  26. Ngoc, Tran, Moon, Chae, Park, & Lee. (2019). Recent Trends of Sunscreen Cosmetic: An Update Review. Cosmetics, 6(4), 64. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics6040064
  27. Pillaiyar, T., Manickam, M., & Namasivayam, V. (2017). Skin whitening agents: medicinal chemistry perspective of tyrosinase inhibitors. Journal of Enzyme Inhibition and Medicinal Chemistry, 32(1), 403–425. https://doi.org/10.1080/14756366.2016.1256882
  28. Premi, S., Wallisch, S., Mano, C. M., Weiner, A. B., Bacchiocchi, A., Wakamatsu, K., Bechara, E. J. H., Halaban, R., Douki, T., & Brash, D. E. (2015). Chemiexcitation of melanin derivatives induces DNA photoproducts long after UV exposure. Science, 347(6224), 842–847. https://doi.org/10.1126/science.1256022
  29. Puebla-Barragan, S., & Reid, G. (2021). Probiotics in Cosmetic and Personal Care Products: Trends and Challenges. Molecules, 26(5), 1249. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules26051249
  30. Radchenkova, N., Panchev, I., Vassilev, S., Kuncheva, M., Dobreva, S., & Kambourova, M. (2015). Continuous cultivation of a thermophilic bacterium Aeribacillus pallidus 418 for production of an exopolysaccharide applicable in cosmetic creams. Journal of Applied Microbiology, 119(5), 1301–1309. https://doi.org/10.1111/jam.12944
  31. Ribeiro, C. S., Leal, F., & Jeunon, T. (2017). Skin Anatomy, Histology, and Physiology. In Clinical Approaches and Procedures in Cosmetic Dermatology (pp. 3–14). Springer International Publishing. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-12589-3_1
  32. Sajna, K. V., Gottumukkala, L. D., Sukumaran, R. K., & Pandey, A. (2015). White Biotechnology in Cosmetics. Industrial Biorefineries & White Biotechnology, 607–652. https://doi.org/10.1016/b978-0-444-63453-5.00020-3
  33. Salminen, S. J., Gueimonde, M., & Isolauri, E. (2005). Probiotics That Modify Disease Risk. The Journal of Nutrition, 135(5), 1294–1298. https://doi.org/10.1093/jn/135.5.1294
  34. Seo, D. H., Jung, J. H., Ha, S. J., Cho, H. K., Jung, D. H., Kim, T. J., Baek, N. I., Yoo, S. H., & Park, C. S. (2012). High-yield enzymatic bioconversion of hydroquinone to α-arbutin, a powerful skin lightening agent, by amylosucrase. Applied Microbiology and Biotechnology, 94(5), 1189–1197. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00253-012-3905-7
  35. Sies, H., & Stahl, W. (2004). NUTRITIONAL PROTECTION AGAINST SKIN DAMAGE FROM SUNLIGHT. Annual Review of Nutrition, 24(1), 173–200. https://doi.org/10.1146/annurev.nutr.24.012003.132320
  36. Silva, R., Coelho, E., Aguiar, T. Q., & Domingues, L. (2021). Microbial Biosynthesis of Lactones: Gaps and Opportunities towards Sustainable Production. Applied Sciences, 11(18), 8500. https://doi.org/10.3390/app11188500
  37. Skotarczak, K., Osmola-Mańkowska, A., Lodyga, M., Polańska, A., Mazur, M., & Adamski, Z. (2015). Photoprotection: Facts and controversies. European Review for Medical and Pharmacological Sciences, 19(1), 98–112.
  38. Solano, F., Briganti, S., Picardo, M., & Ghanem, G. (2006). Hypopigmenting agents: an updated review on biological, chemical and clinical aspects. Pigment Cell Research, 19(6), 550–571. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1600-0749.2006.00334.x
  39. Solano, F. (2020). Photoprotection and Skin Pigmentation: Melanin-Related Molecules and Some Other New Agents Obtained from Natural Sources. Molecules, 25(7), 1537. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules25071537
  40. Sondenheimer, K., Krutmann, J., & Wolf, P. (2018). Novel Means for Photoprotection. 5(May), 1–5. https://doi.org/10.3389/fmed.2018.00162
  41. Souak, D., Barreau, M., Courtois, A., André, V., Duclairoir Poc, C., Feuilloley, M. G. J., & Gault, M. (2021). Challenging Cosmetic Innovation: The Skin Microbiota and Probiotics Protect the Skin from UV-Induced Damage. Microorganisms, 9(5), 936. https://doi.org/10.3390/microorganisms9050936
  42. Sulaeva, I., Henniges, U., Rosenau, T., & Potthast, A. (2015). Bacterial cellulose as a material for wound treatment: Properties and modifications. A review. Biotechnology Advances, 33(8), 1547–1571. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.biotechadv.2015.07.009
  43. Surber, C., Humbert, P., Abels, C., & Maibach, H. (2018). The Acid Mantle: A Myth or an Essential Part of Skin Health? Current Problems in Dermatology (Switzerland), 54, 1–10. https://doi.org/10.1159/000489512
  44. Tedeschi, A., West, L. E., Guzzardi, L., Bhatt, K. H., Reid, E. E., Scapagnini, G., & Micali, G. (2013). Cosmeceuticals in Dermatology. In Update in Cosmetic Dermatology (pp. 87–113). Springer Berlin Heidelberg. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-34029-1_7
  45. Tiwari, U., Ganesan, N. G., Junnarkar, J., & Rangarajan, V. (2020). Toward the formulation of bio-cosmetic nanoemulsions: from plant-derived to microbial-derived ingredients. Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology, 1–18. https://doi.org/10.1080/01932691.2020.1847664
  46. Vecino, X., Cruz, J. M., Moldes, A. B., & Rodrigues, L. R. (2017). Biosurfactants in cosmetic formulations: trends and challenges. Critical Reviews in Biotechnology, 37(7), 911–923. https://doi.org/10.1080/07388551.2016.1269053
  47. Woolley, J. M., & Stavros, V. G. (2019). Unravelling photoprotection in microbial natural products. Science Progress, 102(4), 287–303. https://doi.org/10.1177/0036850419877766
  48. Yamazaki, Y., Nakamura, Y., & Núñez, G. (2017). Role of the microbiota in skin immunity and atopic dermatitis. Allergology International, 66(4), 539–544. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.alit.2017.08.004
  49. Zand, M., & Narasu, M. I. (2013). A review articleBiotechnology Applications in Medicine. International Research Journal of Applied and Basic Sciences, 4(9), 2557–2563. https://www.academia.edu/36935586/A_review_article_Biotechnology_Applications_in_Medicine
  50. Zillich, O. V, Schweiggert-Weisz, U., Eisner, P., & Kerscher, M. (2015). Polyphenols as active ingredients for cosmetic products. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 37(5), 455–464. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12218
  51. Zhu, W., & Gao, J. (2008). The Use of Botanical Extracts as Topical Skin-Lightening Agents for the Improvement of Skin Pigmentation Disorders. Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings, 13(1), 20–24. https://doi.org/10.1038/jidsymp.2008.8
  52. Zolghadri, S., Bahrami, A., Hassan Khan, M. T., Munoz-Munoz, J., Garcia-Molina, F., Garcia-Canovas, F., & Saboury, A. A. (2019). A comprehensive review on tyrosinase inhibitors. Journal of Enzyme Inhibition and Medicinal Chemistry, 34(1), 279–309. https://doi.org/10.1080/14756366.2018.1545767